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Stop those PMS breakouts in their tracks with these hard-working toners
We've come a long way since we wrecked our skin with that apricot face scrub. In fact, switching from abrasive scrubs to chemical exfoliants has become a key milestone in our skincare journey, which is where BHAs come in.
BHA stands for ‘beta-hydroxy acid’ (more on that later) and claims to be able to solve all our skincare woes, from excess oil to blemishes to enlarged pores. Sounds ideal, right? Well, we asked 343 testers to try an array of BHA exfoliating toners for a month to see whether they really lived up to the hype.
Here are the best on test:
BHA has been a buzzword in skincare for a while now, but what does it actually mean?
“Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid, or BHA. This means there are two carbon atoms between the hydroxy and acid portion of the molecule. It is this property that makes salicylic acid more oil soluble, allowing it to penetrate deep into the pores to break down skin cells and sebum and clear the blockages that can often result in acne and breakouts," explains Consultant Dermatologist, Dr Ophelia Veraitch. "It also has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties and is typically used for skin exfoliation and treating acne and blemishes.”
You may have heard of AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids), too. These are another family of acids and work a little differently: “the alpha-hydroxy acids, or AHA, such as glycolic acid just has one carbon atom between the hydroxy and acid portion of the molecule, making it more water soluble and less penetrable to target oil production." says Dr Veraitch.
The moral of the story is, if you’re looking for an oil and blemish-busting formula, salicylic acid will be your new best friend.
There’s no set rule on how often you should use a BHA exfoliating toner, as it depends on your skin type and the formula you decide to use. However, there are a few important points to consider.
First off is the percentage of BHA you use. The lower the percentage, the less irritating it will be for your skin. So if you’re a BHA newbie, or struggle with sensitivity, it’s best to start off around the 2% mark, which is enough for you to see a difference without leaving skin irritated.
If you don’t struggle with sensitivity and want the stronger stuff, you can find formulas with up to 10% BHA - but we'd recommend building up to this percentage.
And how often should you use them? Each toner will come with its own instructions but three times a week to start off with is the usual recommendation. If you need more oomf for fighting blemishes and tackling oil, then you can gradually use them more often.
We’re pleased to say it does. Dr Veraitch explains:
“Salicylic acid is useful for people with oily or acne-prone skin because of the fact that it penetrates into the pores, loosens dead skin cells and helps to clear the clogged pores that often result in acne. Its anti-inflammatory properties mean that it also helps to reduce inflammation and redness."
Once you find the right formula for you, you should see fewer spots (including less aggressive volcano-sized ones!). Ready to find your perfect match? Scroll down to our top picks.
We asked our panel of 343 testers to trial 26 BHA toners for one month, to see which ones made the most difference to their skin. They reported back on which ones improved skin texture, oiliness, dullness and their overall complexion. In the lab, we also used a VISIA image analysis machine to assess testers' spots, skin texture and pores before and after a month of use.
This oil-busting toner contains a powerhouse of acids – glycolic, salicylic and lactic – to address pretty much any skin concern.
It reduced oiliness for 82% of our testers and scored 8/10 in the lab for reducing pores and blemishes and smoothing texture irregularities. It delivered glow too, without stirring up any sensitivity. Add to basket immediately.
Key specs Size: 190ml Designed for: Congested, oily skin
Although gentle on skin, this toner gave a mattifying effect to skin for 75% of testers. It also scored 8/10 in our lab test for minimising the look of pores and angry blemishes. Testers agreed, saying their pores looked clearer, and all said their hyperpigmentation was less noticeable.
Key specs Size: 200ml Designed for: Congested, oily skin
We call this one ‘glow in a bottle’, thanks to its blend of lactic acid (to buff away dead skin cells) and willow bark extract (a gentler version of salicylic acid to unclog pores).
Our testers raved about how well it tackled hyperpigmentation and scarring – with everyone noticing a difference. It didn’t forget about blemishes either, with 73% of testers seeing fewer breakouts.
Key specs Size: 250ml Designed for: Congested, oily, dull, mature skin
This vegan formula contains 100% natural salicylic acid, and left 80% of testers with more radiant-looking skin. Many saw clearer, less obvious-looking pores too, and loved the “clean, fresh” feeling it left behind.
Key specs Size: 200ml Designed for: Congested skin
Smile lines and crow’s feet are a sign of a good time, but if you’re looking to turn back time like Cher, this is your ticket.
Containing almond milk and Lipo Hydroxy Acid (a derivative of salicylic acid), it managed to reduce the look of fine lines for 82% of testers in just one month – impressive, right? It didn’t tackle breakouts though, but did leave 85% with marble-smooth skin.
Key specs Size: 200ml Designed for: Dry, congested, normal skin
If you’re a BHA virgin, start off with this 2% salicylic acid tonic. It’s under £10 and still managed to decrease the amount of pimples popping up for 71% of our testers.
Pores appeared smaller for 64% too, while it also tackled hyperpigmentation for all. Scarring wasn’t drastically improved but it didn’t cause any irritation and just over half saw a difference to their fine lines.
Key specs Size: 200ml Designed for: Congested skin
T-zone looking more greasy than glowy? Leave the oil to the fries and pick up this toner.
Our testers said that it mattified any oil-slick areas, which in turn improved the look of spots for 79%. It soaked up oil without leaving skin dehydrated, as 93% said they didn’t notice any uncomfortable tightness.
Key specs Size: 200ml Designed for: Congested, oily skin
Costing less than your weekly coffee budget, this blend of salicylic acid and witch hazel left 67% of testers with a brighter complexion. It didn't spark sensitivity issues either or leave skin as dry as the desert. It wasn't as effective at clearing blemishes as others on this list but 85% said they’d continue to use it.
Key specs Size: 200ml Designed for: Congested skin
The Inkey List is all about no-nonsense formulas that don't blow your budget, and this one didn’t disappoint.
It’s pretty petite in size (only 30ml) but did minimise breakouts for 72% of testers and reduced the look of pores for 64%. It boosted glow for 83% but it wasn’t hydrating, making it a better choice for oilier skin types.
Key specifications Size: 30ml Designed for: Congested skin
Here, Korean beauty brand Glow Recipe has combined hydrating and soothing watermelon with PHAs (poly hydroxy acids) and BHAs to clear away dead skin cells and blackheads and leave pores squeaky-clean.
The pretty pink toner left skin plumped and moisturised for 81% of testers, with 69% saying their pores appeared tighter. Radiance improved too, with 71% seeing a K-beauty-worthy glow. It didn’t clear breakouts, but did leave 63% with on overall better-looking complexion after the month trial. Key specs Size: 150ml Designed for: Congested, dull skin
If exfoliating toners had a hall of fame, Paula's Choice would take one of the top spots. Rated by dermatologists, this 2% salicylic acid toner managed to improve scarring for all of our testers, with 64% saying it helped combat greasiness, too.
It left 91% with brighter-looking skin and helped improve rough texture for 93%. It wasn't as impressive in the lab but 93% said they would continue to use it.
Key specs Size: 118ml Designed for: Congested, oily, combination skin
Clogged pores and blackheads are not a good look. Help solve the issue with Clinique's clarifying lotion. From our testers, 71% noticed fewer, less angry blemishes after four weeks and 67% said skin appeared brighter. It wasn't hydrating but it didn't cause sensitivity issues either.
Key specs Size: 200ml Designed for: Congested, oily skin